Showing posts with label diy. Show all posts
Showing posts with label diy. Show all posts

Wednesday, November 13, 2013

How to make a personalized invitation from a digital template


How to make a personalized invitation from a digital template

So, as an ol’ photoshop pro, I sometimes am guilty of not considering how the other half operates (seriously how do you survive?) I recently ran into this problem head on when a client ordered one of my instant download invite’s – only to discover she had no idea what to do with it! Unfortunately I was out of town and was not able to respond or help her, thus losing a client and having to issue a refund, not to imagine the frustration on her end… I have decided to turn this bad experience into a learning opportunity for others.

Now, as anyone can tell you there are 100’s of ways to add text to an image and customize a file. For the purpose of this tutorial I am going to pick an easy (and free) method’s to edit one of my invitations (this one here). At the end of the tutorial, I will mention a few other sites/programs (also all free) that are great to utilize.

I actually discovered Fotor today for the purpose of this tutorial. I like it because it is very easy to use, completely free, and I didn’t have to sign up or download anything to use it!

Step 1: Go to http://www.fotor.com/ and click on “Open a Photo”




Step 2: On the right of your screen go to “Add Photo” then “Computer”, then select your previously downloaded invite template.


Step 3: Add text! First click on the “T” in the green circle to get to your text area, then scroll through the font’s in either “Local” or “Online”. Once you find one you like, click on it and hit “Insert Text”



Step 4: You can use the tools to edit its color, size, ect. The color eyedrop tool is my favorite because I can use colors straight from the invite! Don’t be afraid to play around so you understand what these do before you move on. At any point you can edit your text by clicking on it.



Step 5: Repeat step’s 3 and 4! Just keep adding text until you are happy and have everything you need.


Step 6: If you are feeling extra adventurous check out their other tools, add clip art, ect Oh! And it will ask you to apply your changes before switching tools, always do so.



Step 7: Save! Go to the share icon and save as a jpg, highest quality on the slider bar.


Step….. YOUR DONE! At least with the design work. Now you can upload to facebook, print at home, or at a store.


Now, some other online programs that will allow you to add text (and do other awesome things as well):

Some companies, online and storefront, that you can order prints from (and also edit):


I hope you will find this tutorial helpful, please comment below about your experience with any of these programs (or others). And if you are on the hunt for some invite templates feel free to check out my etsy shop (insert shameless self promotion)
-Chelsey

Thursday, October 17, 2013

Member Tip of the day: Space saving!

"I'm sure we can all use a space saving tip, so here's mine. I purchased a shoe organizer from Walmart to store my bead boxes and other small items. It measures 32" X 13" X 24" so it fits in a small space. It is lightweight yet very durable. The top is hard so it makes the perfect additional desk space!"


Thank you Marlene! Check out her shop DimmittDesignsto see the product of her organization in action!

Tuesday, March 12, 2013

Florida Gardening: DIY Vase

Team leader, The Wooden Bee, has a passion for gardening and nature. She blogs about gardening with her children and recently shared this easy DIY vase idea!

vase7
We love upcycling materials around the house. One weekend while playing in the backyard, the little gardeners gathered up a bunch of sticks from our rain tree.  We decided to glue them to a washed tin can to make a little backyard vase.
vase3

Materials:

tin can, or other recycled container

sticks

hot glue

vase1
We left the sticks different lengths to help arrange and hold the flowers.
vase5
We doubled up the stick layers to cover the aluminum.  You could also paint the tin can for a little extra color to show through.
vase6
We've been enjoying flowers in our eco-friendly little vase all week!

Thursday, December 15, 2011

2011 Holiday Count Down # 15

Count down to 2012 - Our gift from FEST to you!

#15 ~ TODAY'S Tutorial By AquarianBath where you will find only the finest selection of soaps and natural herb products!
Today Cory shares: Easy Do It Your Self Soap Mold Making


Take apart wooden soap molds are great for making the perfectly shaped soaps, but they can be quite expensive. For 10 dollars or less you can make a soap mold yourself which is suitable for making professional quality soaps.

Here is what you will need to make a mold that will make 14-15 4.5 oz bar soaps to fit into standard soap boxes:

Sandpaper
Rotary saw
Power drill
1 natural board 3.5 inch wide X 1.5 inch thick X 27.5 inches or longer
1 natural board 5.5 inch wide X 1.5 inch thick X 35 inches or longer
2 six inch bolts with 1/4 inch diameter. The tip of the the bolt should be threaded at least an inch.
1/4 inch drill bit
4 1/4 inch washers
2 1/4 inch wing nuts



The first board forms the base of the mold and ends of the loaf. Measure and mark a length of the board 17.5 inches and 2 lengths 4.5 inches. The second board forms the sides of the mold. Measure and mark two lengths of the board to 17.5 inches. Cut and sand the rough edges of the boards. Next you will need to drill holes for the bolts that hold the mold together. Two bolt holes need to be made in two corners of the each board. Stack the 2 matching 17.5 inch boards on top of each other. Near one corner of the top board measure inward from the long side of the approximately 2 inches then measure from the short end 1 inch out. Mark this spot with a dot. Make a dot on the opposite end of the long side of the board. Drill the through these markings keeping both boards stacked securely together. Sand around the newly drilled holes. Next thread your bolt and washers and wing nut through the two boards. You are ready to assemble the mold. The narrow long board goes at the bottom in between the bolted side boards that secure it. The 2 short end boards stand up in between the sides of the board and are secured by the bolt which sits behind it. Be sure to line your soap with wax paper before use.



Cory Trusty is a community herbalist and Soap maker in Daytona Beach, Florida.
Visit her one Etsy at AquarianBath or DelicateAdornments. You can also find her on Facebook.

Sunday, December 11, 2011

2011 HOLIDAY COUNT DOWN #11

Count down to 2012 - Our gift from FEST to you!


#11 ~ TODAY'S Tutorial By AquarianBath where you will find only the finest selection of soaps and natural herb products!
Today Cory shares: How to make Herb Infused Oils




A herb infused oil is a base oil such as Extra Virgin Olive oil or Coconut oil that has been steeped with freshly wilted or dried herbs. Herb infused oils are fun to make and can be used for many purposes including culinary, for anointing, as body massage oils, for general skin care, or as a base for natural salve, lotion & balm remedies. Infused herbal oils are similar to essential oils in that they contain volatile oils from the herbs used to make the infusion, however the concentration of the volatile oils within an infused oil is significantly lower compared to essential oils. For this reason herb infused oils have a number of advantages for the average person compared to working with pure essential oils. First herb-infused oils are very safe, whereas working with essential oils is relatively dangerous and requires extreme care in regard to storage and dilution. There are many recipes in books and online for using essential oils, which are not particularly safe. Second, herbal infused oils can be made easily in the home with abundant herbs which can be harvested ethically, respectfully and sustainably in your local bioregion. For example, in Central Florida common plants like Southern Plantain, Elderflower, Pine.



There are a variety of methods for making herb infused oils, and each has its own advantage. They each have in common that fresh wilted or dried herbs are used to make the oil. Generally leaves, flowers, twigs or resins are used. The first method for preparing infused oils is the 'cold' method in which chopped herbs are added to a clean glass jar, filled with oil and left to steep in for a number of days. This method has it's advantage in that no external energy is required to make the oil, however with this method the chance of spoilage increases when using fresh herbs due to the residual water content in the plant material. Also infused oils cannot be made effectively using resins with this method. A second method is the crock pot method. This method is very convenient in that it is self contained, however much care must be taken to ensure that herbs are not overheated and burned. The third method, which I will present here, is the water bath (Bain Marie) or double boiler method. This is the method gives me the best results. Using a water bath herbs are heated slowly in a glass or ceramic container which sits within a larger container of hot water. This method is fast and convenient, there is little chance to overheat the herbs, and there is low likelihood of having residual water in the finished oil. It is important that the oil remains water free, because water-containing preparations are susceptible to bacterial growth.



Materials for Making Infused Oils by the Water Bath Method
~ Electric or gas burner
~ Freshly wilted wild harvested or home grown herbs OR dried wild harvested or organic herbs
~ Stable base oil (preferably organic) appropriate for either culinary or external use depending on your choice of herbs and your plan for the finished oil: Extra Virgin Olive oil, Coconut oil, Fractionated Coconut oil, Jojoba Wax, Sesame oil, Lard. Fractionated Coconut oil and Jojoba wax have an unlimited shelf life. When making body oils, persons with sensitive skin may wish to avoid coconut oil or use it at not more than 50% of your total oil solution.
~ Double boiler which can be made with a small pot and a Pyrex glass container, a mason jar, or other heat resistant glass or ceramic container. Use a glass container than you don't mind recycling if you are working with a resin.
~ Very clean utensils including: spoon or chopstick, knife, funnel, glass storage jar for finished oil, small plate, and cutting board for working with fresh plants.
~Cheese cloth
~Sharpie pen or sticker label & regular pen
~ Vitamin E
~ Pipette

Method
Clean and clear your workspace. Gather all necessary utensils and containers. Clean containers and utensils thoroughly in a dish washing machine or by hand with hot soapy water and a small amount of borax. You may also chose to sterilize utensils in the same way that one would do for canning. Another option is to wipe down utensils with high proof alcohol. Let containers and utensils air dry. Oil containers and utensils must remain free from water throughout the infusion making process.



Gather your herbs. If you are working with dry herbs, then organic or wild harvested are the best choice. Mountain Rose herbs is a good source for dry herbs. For fresh herbs, gather plant material with consideration to the ecosystem from properly identified specimens that are free from blemish and are at least 8 feet away from any roads. The best time to collect herbs is late morning when there is no dew or rainwater on the plant. Collect not more than 10 percent of a wild population of plants. Chop herbs coarsely and let them wilt in the shade for a few hours. Wilting herbs decreases the water content of the herbs.

Fill your clean jar or glass or ceramic container with herbs, then cover with the base oil of your choice. Coconut oil and Extra Virgin Olive oil are my personal favorites. I also use Sesame oil very often. Place your herb-oil container in your water bath and turn on heat to medium-high. Ideally you can cover your herb & oil container partially but not completely with a lid. Next let the herbs infuse in the oil for approximately 1-2 hours. The oil should get warm, but not so warm to burn the skin. You will need to monitor the oil and adjust the temperature. To check the temperature of the oil use your clean spoon or chopstick to drip oil onto your wrist. The oil should feel warmer than your body temperature but not so warm to burn the skin. After testing the temperature place your oily spoon on your clean plate. Be cautious throughout this step not to let water from your boiler to splash up into your herb and oil container. You will know when your oil is becoming ready when it has taken on the color & scent of the herbs. If you have used fresh herbs then you will want to steam off any excess water remaining in the oil before decanting. There are two good ways to check for lingering water in the infused oil when working with fresh herbs. First check the herbs with your spoon, they should have a crisp feel about them. Second, use your lid to completely cover the oil for a minute or two, then look under the lid for condensation. If there is condensation, then continue to infuse the oils with the lid partially covered so that water can steam out of the container. Check again until you are satisfied that the oil is water-free.

Next turn off the heat and remove the oil container from the water bath. Carefully dry the outside of the container and prepare to decant the oil. Place the clean funnel in your clean dry glass storage jar, and line the funnel with a couple of layers of cheese cloth. Pour the oil and spent herbs into the funnel and let strain. When the oil is strained completely, you can squeeze or press the cheesecloth to maximize your oil yield.

If you would like to make a double or triple infused oil then you can repeat steps 3 and 4 with this freshly infused batch of oil.

Double check your infused oil for water if you used fresh herbs. Let the jar of infused oil stand over night. Check the bottom of the jar for water droplets. If there is any water at the bottom of the jar, then you will want to pour the oil into a fresh jar, or pipette out the water droplets.

Storage and shelf life: Now you should have a fresh batch of infused oil that is clear with no remaining leaf or flower pieces. Oils, including infused oils go bad after a time because of oxidation. Rancid oils are oxidized and will have an off scent. To maximize the shelf life of your oils, put it in a container with a small amount of air overhead, keep it cool and dark. Add a small amount of Vitamin E to extend the shelf life of your infused oil.

Suggestions for Herb Infused Oils
Culinary: Oregano, Rosemary, Basil, Mint
General Skin Care: Calendula flowers, Mulberry (Morus alba) leaves, Elderflowers, Plantain leaves
Invigorating Massage oil: Mugwort leaves, Camphor resin, leaves or twigs, Lemongrass, Goldenrod flowers
Congested Chest Massage oil: Camphor resin, leaves or twigs, Lemongrass, Pine twigs & needles, Mint leaves
Anointing oil: Frankincense resin, Myrrh resin, White Sage leaves
Extra strength: double or triple infuse your herbal infused oil
Locally grown: What is growing in your back yard or neighborhood in abundance? Check out a field guide from your local library. There are many medicinal wild weeds, trees, and ornamental plants with culinary or medicinal value that would be great to experiment with.
Natural colorants: Annato seed (below), Alkanet root (see first blog image)



Article by Herbalist and Soap maker Cory Trusty in Daytona Beach. Cory's Etsy shops are AquarianBath and DelicateAdornments.

Copyright 2011 Cory Trusty aquarianbath.com. Permission is granted to copy, distribute and/or modify this document under the terms of the GNU Free Documentation License, Version 1.2 or any later version published by the Free Software Foundation;with no Invariant Sections, no Front-Cover Texts, and no Back-Cover http://www.gnu.org/copyleft/fdl.html

Thursday, December 8, 2011

2011 HOLIDAY COUNT DOWN # 8

Count down to 2012 - Our gift from FEST to you!


#8 ~ TODAY'S Tutorial By AquarianBath where you will find only the finest selection of soaps and natural herb products!
Today Cory shares: How to Make Fresh Herbal Boutineers and Corsages


You can make fresh herbal corsages or boutineers with Rosemary and other evergreen herbs and shrubs from your yard or neighborhood. Rosemary is one of my favorite herbs for the holidays, but these kinds of arrangements with other herbs as well. I've just been having fun with rosemary and red pepper.

You just need a few tools. You will need wire snips, florist tape and florist wire. You can get these from a craft store.



I choose herbs with fairly sturdy stems, but you can also use herbs with more delicate stems if you wrap them together with sturdy stemmed herbs. Strip the foliage from the bottom inch or 2 of the stem.



Poke a hole through the the green tender part of the herb stem and wrap the wire around the stem to stabilize it.



Stretch the tape and start wrapping it tightly at the base of the plant and continue down to the end of the wire.



Once you have the stems wraps you can combine them together however you wish. Finish by wrapping them all together with a new piece of florist tape. Here is a simple Rosemary and Hot Pepper boutineer.



You can also make and hanging ornament, a small wreath or corsage with additional herbs of your choice.

Tutorial by Cory Trusty, soap maker and herbalist in Daytona Beach, FL. Check out Cory on Etsy at AquarianBath and DelicateAdornments.

Thursday, August 11, 2011

How to Cure Soap in Humid Environments

Florida's climate can be a bit of challenge to the handmade soap maker. Depending on the concentration of water that a soap is made with it requires 3-6 to cure, or become ready for use. For standard beginner recipes 4 weeks is required. While the soaps cure they become milder and loose water; that is if you are in Florida, you hope they loose water. In Florida summer months the humidity can be quite a challenge for curing soaps and the over all shelf life of your soaps. Over the years I have had some sad losses due to Florida's humidity. If soaps are left out to cure in humid rooms the excess water from the soaps will not evaporate, they will simply stay in the soaps and lead to premature rancidity. In addition to the off smell characteristic of rancidity, rancid soaps will also develop small orange spots from oxidation.



You can offset the humidity somewhat with a dehumidifier, but dehumidifiers can heat up and be expensive to run. Also logistically it maybe difficult to use a dehumidifier depending on the size of your curing area, the type of electrical outlet in your curing area, etc. Also older central air conditioning unit are not designed to dehumidify.

Now I rarely run my dehumidifier, but instead cure my cut soaps in small closed spaces with non-toxic Calcium Cloride desiccating salts. The most readily accessible salts are sold as Damp Rid. You can at most grocery stores or online.



A cabinet or a large cardboard box makes a good place for curing your soaps using this method. If you are using a small container of Damprid, you will want to check your container every couple days for the first week or so in case you need to add more. Also, take into consideration what kinds of soaps you are curing together if you are using more than one variety. You don't want to cure soaps with a delicate floral scents together with woody scents, for example. Unscented soaps can pick up scents from scented soaps that they are cured with when you use this method. Right now, I'm curing my strongly medicinal smelling Neem Shampoo Bars in their own dedicated box away from my regular soaps for this reason.


Hope you like this method. Let me know if you have any questions or experiences curing soaps in humid environments.

Enjoy,
Cory Trusty

http://aquarianbath.etsy.com